Days in the Arctic

Tromsø! 
Okay, we arrived and having booked it, were whisked straight from the ship to a dog-sledding outfit out in the countryside. They have 300 dogs there, all desperately keen to run and get a cuddle from anyone who likes dogs. I'll have to say that I'm not sure that keeping three hundred dogs solely for the entertainment of tourists is a good thing, but they seemed pretty well cared for, certainly friendly and really keen to run. It's well to remember, should you be doing this, that sleds have no suspension and there are, um, big lumps and small jumps on the 5k trail they use....ouch.
After the run it was time to fondle the dogs, and puppies, which are insanely cute - of course, clamber out of the borrowed playsuits and go inside for cake and coffee/tea.
After all this we went to our hotel, the Viking...No helmets or timbered rooms...all modern and quite comfortable.
The next day we went to the contemporary art museum, which had the usual strange installations, one of which was videos of an olive tree having it's olives violently shaken off by a machine....wasn't filmed in Portugal though. We also visited the local marine attraction, Polaria, a building shaped to resemble collapsed heaped pack ice...










They had an indoor seal pool with a walk through tunnel so you could see the Bearded and Harbour Seals, 'neath the water....

We decided not to go out on a Northern lights trip till Thursday night as the prognosis looked good for then. So we spent some time mooching about Tromsø, taking pics of interesting houses and buildings and visiting the other museum and a few cafes...

The architecture here is timber and generally a very human scale. Even the old Cathedral!
When we left the restaurant that night, we saw people down by the waterfront, hoping to see the Aurora, and sure enough you could, though rendered very pale by the city lights.

Last night was our time to go and look for the lights so we joined a large group on a bus to get away from the city lights and out from under the overcast of the city.
My camera’s batteries were not happy about the cold and I had to keep taking off my gloves to deal with it.
As we were pretty far out of town the weather was COLD! Minus 6, or so. We stood around by the side of a fjord waiting for the Aurora to be more than a pale green arch across the sky – which is pretty strange in itself…

After an hour or so we went back up to the bus for hot chocolate and cookies…and aurora started to dance….mind blowing.

Got back to hotel just after 0100, tired but well pleased.
Today we’ve been taking it easy! Tomorrow we are travelling home after a wonderful and memorable trip.

Hunting the Light and Chasing the Dream

On Sunday we boarded the cruise ship HMS Lofoten at Trondheim Harbour.

It is the oldest and most charming of the working tour boats that travel North and South, servicing the towns along the coast. Our destination..Tromso the largest town in the Nordland.

Our cabin is in the bowels of the ship but comfortable and very warm. The whole interior is very traditional, lots of brass and wood and plush furniture. The crew are friendly and helpful.

We settled in for the afternoon, watching the scenery elongated shadows and low level golden sunlight lit the fjords and the sea.

 And then .....Sunset

Sadly my camera was not the best and Fraser's was not playing the game. But there was a sun pillar in the sky which was such a deep crimson that it looked like something out of Mordor in the Lord of the Rings! 

 

A rare sight apparently and a good omen for us.

We saw nothing more before turning in at about 11pm.We were then woken at 1am with a call that the northern light was coming.

We couldn't believe our luck. The narrow arc of pale green light in the sky rose up slowly from the northern horizon dissipated and separated. Fraser managed to get this shot despite the movement of the ship.

It was minus 5 outside with a chill factor minus 12 degrees so once it seemed to have faded we went into the salon to warm up and wait. Just before we headed back to bed at around 2.30 took a final look outside and the arc condensed for just a few minutes and then began to fold into horizontal lengths of green. Sadly not a shot of that but it was just wonderful to see. Got to bed just after 3 am feeling that at least we had seen the elusive light.

Up at 6.30am to see the sunrise and to be outside for the moment when we crossed the Arctic Circle just after 7am leaving the North Sea and entering the Arctic Ocean.  

There is a lit beacon in the shape of a wired hollow globe marking the point. It was an epic moment.

Later at the crossing ceremony we were all invited to celebrate by having iced water poured down our necks and a shot of snaps! Had to comply of course.  

We have a certificate too to prove we crossed the Arctic Circle into the Arctic Ocean.

We spent a relaxing day enjoying being in open water further north than we had ever been.But then...around 8pm while we were docked at Stamsund we got THE CALL and went out to see the most incredible aurora. Having left the lights of the dock to head on, the display intensified into an hour's lightshow. Speechless so here are a few shots to whet the appetite. We both felt so moved and thankful.

We feel we have been luckier than some but are still hoping for more once we reach Tromso. 

But first....when we arrive we are going Dog Sledding and to cuddle the huskies.....................! Watch this space!

Two Go Mad in Norway!

Diary of our adventures on our Christmas gift trip to Norway, thanks to son James!

Saturday 9th February..Trondheim

Arrived last night after a full day's travel from Lisbon via Oslo, to a 20 degree change in temperature from 12 degrees to -8! Settled into our lovely hotel and then ventured out into the night
Snow, ice, slippery streets and fresh air!



                                             
Ate out last night in local pub, refusing the meal of the day of whale and settling for a schnitzel for Fraser and fish dish for me ! The local beer was wonderful, best we have had since Prague called Dahls and cost £7 a half litre but well worth it. Total bill was over £60! But hey! we are on holiday! Gulp!

Breakfast this morning was like a major banquet and didn't know where to start, but we soon overcame that problem and tucked in to fresh fruit, scrambled egg and smoked salmon for me and Fraser got stuck into an amazing omelette and sausage amongst other things. Having stuffed ourselves to get us through the day we went out and about.
Here are a few shots of our visits today to the Cathedral

Sun level is low so the lighting is magical.  Followed by  a break at the art bar for a much needed hot chocolate and warm up

 

Along to the Old Town Bridge and Wharves,where the river is coated with ice despite the fast flowing current 
 

And then a mooch through the streets of the old town.

We discovered that guerrilla knitters had been out and about covering up the odd tree and sculpture with their work...just loved it. What a Great First Day!

Watch this space for more  over the next week. Tomorrow we board a cruise boat for two nights to travel up above the arctic circle to Tromso.